The Space Age(s)
Dior Men’s Pre-fall 2023, designed by Kim Jones
I was struck by Joelle Diderich’s recent article in WWD, touting the arrival of a new space age in fashion. What strikes me even more is that the originator of space-age design, Pierre Cardin, is once more leaping into the fray.
Cardin is one of the original “space age” designers, opening his own house in 1950 and launching his 1st haute couture line in 1953. He is notable for inventing the “bubble dress” and then in the 1970’s setting off the “mod chic” trend. His love affair with space exploration is evident by his visit to NASA in 1970, where he had the privilege of wearing the original spacesuit worn by Neil Armstrong.
These days, Pierre Cardin is probably best known for his cameo role in the hit series, “Emily in Paris,” with the tongue-in-cheek luggage pieces recently made available for purchase. Less well known is that the house of Cardin has recently designed the first “space dress” from thermal blankets, in partnership with the aerospace manufacturer Thales Alenia Space. Another outcome of this partnership are the annual Priz Bulles Cardin awards to honor organizations and individuals that are contributing towards a green economy. Spearheading this project is Cardin’s great nephew Rodrigo Basilicati-Cardin.
However, lest we forget other notable fashion designers also helped pioneer space-age fashion in the 1960’s. Andre Courreges and Mary Quant vie for the title of creator of the mini skirt. It is certain however that it was Courreges who designed the “go-go boot” that took hold with the swinging Londoners of the mid ‘60s. Starting with his debut collection in 1964, after a 10-year career at Balenciaga*, he favored modern designs and modern fabrics, famously incorporating plastics in his work.
*Ironically, Pierre Cardin was denied the honor of working at Balenciaga
In some cases, the fascination with space age exploration is driven by the perception of the moon as an ultimate destination, whether for wealthy vacationers or for future human settlement. In other cases, space is more of a symbol, a manifestation of our dreams and desires. Kim Jones found inspiration for his Dior Men’s pre-fall collection, the Chanel No5 campaign features Marion Cotillard in a space suit, and in 2020 Estee Lauder went so far as to send their Advanced Night Repair Serum to the International Space Station (ISS) for a photo shoot!
What has always fascinated me about history is the truth in the saying, “what goes around comes around.” This is true in politics, and it is true in our wardrobes! It would seem that the craze over 90’s and early-aughts fashion is waning, sending us back even further in time to the 1960’s. My advice: never throw any of your clothing away, because it is going to come back into style - eventually!
