Paris, RTW Spring 2023

Minuit, Paris, RTW Spring 2023 collection by Laurie Abellot

If, like me, you stay more closely attuned to the goings-on of the larger Maisons (Chanel, Louis V, Prada, etc), you may have overlooked some of the lesser-known brands that recently showcased in Paris for RTW Spring 2023. Here is my attempt to rectify my own oversight, and perhaps enlighten a few others along the way….

Jacquemus - not one of the newer names, true, but I found that despite being familiar with the name, I knew very little about the origins of the brand. Founder and still owner-designer Simon Porte Jacquemus was born in Provence in 1990, and started the label when he was only 19, naming it after his mother’s maiden name shortly after her passing in 2009. He gained experience at Comme des Garcons and found a mentor and advocate in Rei Kawakubo, as well as Adrian Joffe. His SS 2018 collection, “La Bomba,” was picked up by Selfridges, Moda Operandi, and Net-a-Porter. Business of Fashion has described his collections as having a “child-like spirit and sense of freedom.” BoF also described his designs as asymmetrical, which was certainly evident in his RTW Spring 2023 collection, in looks 1, 2, and 3 specifically. Look 8 is perhaps my favorite, featuring a cheery canary yellow skirt with matching “halter” top, both strung together with - well, string - and reminding one of a sail billowing in the wind. He does hail from Marseilles, that famous port/fishing town, after all!

Gabriele Colangelo - I have never heard of this designer, but I find his styles intriguing! There is less on the internet about him, despite the fact that he was born in Milan in 1975 to a family with a specialized fur workshop. After collaborations with Versace, and Roberto Cavalli, he launched his own label in 2008. Frankly that is about all I could uncover about him, except that in 2015 he also was the creative director of GIADA, another Milanese brand. For his RTW SS 2023 collection, I’m seeing lost of knots, braiding, and string…again reminiscent of a sailor’s time at sea. Apparently this collection was inspired by his habit of rising early and watching the sunrise, which explains the gorgeous mix of orange, blue, and sapphire hues mixed with a neutral white.

Florentina Leitner - another new-to-me name, this Austrian designer is based out of Antwerp (I have actually been there!) and showed her RTW Spring 2023 collection in Paris. Inspired by the countryside of her homeland, the set featured a series of haystacks, made all the more noticeable against the black backdrop. The minimalist set allowed the designs themselves to take center stage. I’m struck by the unique nature of her styles, despite the cliched floral motifs. She seems to have a knack for incorporating current trends - cut outs, sheer/ body-skimming fabrics, mutton sleeves, knitwear, dresses and skirts that balloon out - but in a distinctly personal way, such as the oversized daisies embroidered on a knit top and paired with what appears to be a linen skirt featuring a print with pink deer. WWD refers to the collection as “more psychedelic trip than breathy romance,” and I would definitely agree!

Ruohan Nie - minimal to the max, is what I can say about her collection. The color palette: neutral tones. The silhouette: tailored but loose fitting. For the Paris show, models posed like statues, adding to the “gallerist vibe” as WWD describes. This is definitely a younger brand in that it was “just” founded in June 2020 and is based in NYC.

Minuit - literally “Midnight,” in French, the designer’s name is Laurie Arbellot, who launched the label in 2019 after 15 years designing for other notable brands including Proenza Schouler, March Jacobs, and Chloe. Although herself French, Arbellot credits the streets of NYC for the inspiration for this collection, which definitely gives off urban-chic vibes. Slouchy tailoring, dress skirts paired with T-shirts and combat boots, belts with nearly every look - to my mind, a modern approach to a 90’s / early-aughts aesthetic.

I encourage you, dear reader, to follow these designers and to please support emerging brands. After all, this is the future of fashion!

AUTHOR’S NOTE: much thanks to Lily Templeton for her coverage of the Paris Spring RTW 2023 shows for WWD.