Barbiecore
Margot Robbie stars in the highly anticipated 2023 “Barbie” movie
Like 90% of American females, I owned Barbies growing up. I still remember the cute little pop-up apartment that doubled as a carrying case. Perhaps the earliest trace of my future fashion obsession was the joy I found in dressing my various Barbies in different styles. But it wasn’t just about the fashion. In retrospect, the storylines that I created with my cadre of models was more about my vision for what a future as a young adult woman might be like, in the pre-internet era and decades before #MeToo.
Barbie has always generated a certain amount of controversy as well as nostalgia. As far back as 1958, in a pilot test study before the launch of the doll on March 9, 1959, mothers complained about Barbie’s proportions. Rather than address the issue, Mattel Inc (created by Ruth Handler and her husband, Elliott) decided to market their product directly to their target market, the children. In 1955 Mattel was the first toy company to deliver commercials aimed at children, and even sponsored the Mickey Mouse Club. Since the 1970’s, Barbie has been criticized for promoting materialism and consumer capitalism, an argument exacerbated by the fact that this “all-American” doll is not actually produced in the U.S. to avoid labor costs.
Yet the greatest criticism that Barbie has faced would be her proportions, which for a real woman would measure 36 x 18 x 33. In 1994 a study conducted by the University Central Hospital in Helsinki, Finland concluded that Barbie in real life would not have enough body fat to be able to menstruate. Between 2014 and 2016 sales of Barbie declined steeply, following a resurgence of concern over the “Barbie Doll Syndrome.” According to Wikipedia, “in 1963, the outfit ‘Barbie Baby-Sits’ came with a book titled How to Lose Weight which advised: ‘Don't eat!’ The same book was included in another ensemble called ‘Slumber Party’ in 1965 along with a pink bathroom scale permanently set at 110 pounds, which would be underweight for a woman 5 feet 9 inches tall.” In 2016 Mattel issued additional body types labeled “tall,” “petite,” and “curvy.”
Despite these criticisms, there are many who argue that Barbie presented a positive alternative to “restrictive 50’s gender roles.” [Britannica]. Rather than playing the traditional homemaker, Barbie embodied financial independence and professional aspirations. In 1963 Barbie first landed on the moon – 5 years before “man.” In 1973 she became a surgeon, in 1985 a CEO. 1992 was the first year in which she ran for Presidency, and she has done so every year since then. And while Barbie had African American friends since the 1960’s, in 1980 the first official black Barbie was introduced.
There’s no doubt that not only does Barbie hold a timeless appeal, but in recent hears has even experienced a resurgence of popularity, currently referred to as “Barbiecore.” This has much to do with the highly anticipated July release of the “Barbie” movie (starring Margot Robbie and Ryan Gosling, directed by Gretta Gerwig) and the leak of photos taken in L.A. during filming. However, there is also plenty of evidence to suggest that it was Valentino’s 2022 Spring-Summer collection, done entirely in “P.P. Pink,” that launched Barbiecore into the stratosphere. Florence Pugh, Anne Hathaway, Ariana De Bose, and Zendaya all attended the show in designs featuring the trademark color. A quick Google search pulls many articles from 2022 referencing the trend: August 5 (Mashable), July 8 (Today), July 30 (Women and Home), and November 9 (Elle Australia). At the 2022 Met Gala, themed “Gilded Glamour and White Tie,” many celebrities wore “P.P.Pink” ensembles.
And yet….the roots of Barbiecore go back even further. For example, Nicki Minaj has always identified with Barbie throughout her career, referring to her fans as “barbz,” and in 2018 released the hit single “Barbie Dreams.” Barbiecore Pinterest boards started trending in 2019. Hailey Bieber sported a Barbie-themed Halloween outfit in 2016, and Kacey Musgraves wore a Barbie-pink look to the Met Gala in 2019. For the 2015 Spring RTW show for Moschino, Jeremey Scott’s designs channeled Barbie. As far back as 1985, Oscar de la Renta was the 1st official designer to collaborate on the designs of the doll herself.
So what does all this mean, anyway? According to Mashable, “with Barbiecore, traditional ideals of femininity, womanhood, and perfection continue to be subverted. Connotations associated with Barbie have shifted.” Love her or hate her, I do believe that Barbie is here to stay.
